Tuesday, 04 March 2014 15:21

Shaving Soap

A puck of shaving soapShaving with a traditional shaving soap is a pleasure that everyone who shaves should experience.

Used with a brush, traditional shaving soaps and creams create a thick, slick lather that protects the skin, lubricates the glide of the razor, and delivers a pleasant scent to the shaver. The matrix of bubbles also traps moisture close to the hairs, making them softer and easier to cut. This is all accomplished without relying on aerosol propellants or petroleum derivatives, both of which can dry the skin.

 Dapper Dragon Shaving Soap can be purchased from my Etsy store.

Ingredients

Dapper Dragon Shave Soaps are made in two formulations from a small number of ingredients:

Original (Vegan) Formula

  • Stearic Acid - This fatty acid creates a soap with a stable, long lasting and creamy lather. It's slick as well, producing the effortless glide you want for a great shave. Our stearic acid is derived from palm oil, and contains no animal products.
  • Coconut Oil - Coconut oil soap produces a large volume of bubbles. When combined with the creaminess of stearic acid, you end up with a thick lather that easily lasts for your entire shave. Raw coconut oil is also a useful emollient.
  • Shea Butter - Shea butter pulls double duty in our soaps. This oil is high in stearic acid, adding to the slick, stable lather. But more importantly, shea butter is used around the world to moisturize and pamper the skin.
  • Glycerin - Glycerin is created in the chemical process that turns oils into soaps. In addition, we add extra glycerin to each bar. Glycerin is slippery, increasing the glide of your razor. It also boosts the amount of lather created. And finally, glycerin is a humectant, attracting and holding on to water. This ensures a moist, hydrating lather, and works with the shea butter and coconut oil to protect the skin.
  • Sodium and Potassium Hydroxides - these are the agents that turn oil into soap. The two caustics produce soaps of different hardness and slightly different properties. After testing multiple versions, we've arrived at a great balance of malleability, ease of lather, and longevity. 
    Our soaps are hot processed to accelerate the transition and tested for mildness to ensure that no active lye is present when it makes it way to you.
  • Sodium Lactate - Sodium lactate is an additive that causes hot-processed soap to maintain a smoother consistency for easier and more consistent molding and texture. It also has a small "boosting" effect on latherability, but in the quantities used by Dapper Dragon, the effect would be negligible.

Tallow Formula

The tallow formula contains the ingredients listed above, but in different ratios, and adds tallow to the mix.

  • Tallow - Tallow is made from rendered beef or sheep fat, and has been a highly regarded component for soap making almost as long as humans have been making soap. Tallow soap adds a lasting slickness to the formula, as well as leaving the skin soft and moisturized.

A bowl full of lather

Scents

Our shaving soaps are available in a variety of scents. For descriptions, please visit our shaving soap scents page.

Packaging

Our shaving soaps are offered in a translucent green plastic tub. The tub is easy to load from, and flat on top and bottom for stacking. The size of the puck is perfect for both wet and dry loading methods, with a generous amount of head space to keep your developing lather from escaping.

The tubs are packed by hand, but each is weighed to insure a minimum of 4oz per tub.

How To Lather Dapper Dragon Soaps

Experienced wet shavers should have little trouble getting a copious lather from Dapper Dragon soaps. But if you're less experienced, having trouble, or just interested to hear how I do it, these are my methods:

Wet Brush

  1. Thoroughly wet shave brush to saturate boar bristles and warm badger & synthetic.
  2. For brushes that hold a lot of water (badger, large boars or some synthetics) give a little shake. We want to have a brush that's wet but not sopping/dripping.
  3. Gently swirl shave brush on the puck. Bubbles should begin forming immediately.
  4. Keep swirling on the soap puck until the bubbles become small, and the lather being created looks nearly ready to shave with.
  5. Move the brush to your bowl or face and continue to build the lather. You may need to add a bit more water before it's fully hydrated.

Damp Brush

  1. Some shavers find it benefitial to cover the soap in a small amount of hot water. This softens the top layer of soap and also causes the scent to begin "blooming."
  2. Thoroughly wet your shaving brush to saturate boar bristles and warm badger & synthetic.
  3. Shake all excess water out of your brush until it's merely damp. Large or dense badger hair brushes may benefit from a gentle squeeze.
  4. If you soaked your soap, pour the water off.
  5. Begin gently swirling the brush on the soap. Bubbles will be minimal due to the low amount of water.
  6. Load the brush until the end is thoroughly loaded. It should look like it's caked with a soft paste
    1. Load time will depend on the size, firmness and type of bristles. 30 seconds is a good starting point.
    2. If the brush stops picking up soap before loading is sufficient, add a small amount of water (perhaps 1/4tsp) to the soap before loading again.
  7. Swirl the brush on your face or in your shaving bowl. Add water in small amounts to the brush until a full lather forms.
  8. Look for a slight sheen on the lather, and slickness between your fingers to help determine when your lather is at its best.

Coming Soon

Keep your eyes on this page for how-to videos, brush recommendations, and other related information.

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Published in Shaving Soap